Best Thermal Paste for GPUs in 2026: 7 Compounds Compared

The best thermal paste for a graphics card is a thick, non-conductive compound that resists pump-out, and for most owners that means Arctic MX-6 or Noctua NT-H2 for a safe, long-lasting repaste. If you chase the lowest possible temperatures and do not mind reapplying every year or so, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut or Kryonaut Extreme lead on rated conductivity. If you want to apply something once and forget it, Honeywell PTM7950 phase-change pads are the usual community answer, with liquid metal reserved for experienced modders only.

A GPU is a harder job for thermal interface material than a CPU. A processor has a heat spreader and a heavy mounting bracket pressing the cooler down. A graphics card has a bare die, a cooler held by four spring screws, and a die that expands and contracts every time a game loads and unloads. That is why the paste that tops a CPU chart is not always the one you want on a graphics processor, and why this guide ranks compounds by how they behave on a bare die rather than by a single conductivity number.

Our top picks

Top pickARCTIC MX-4

Check price on Amazon

Also greatARCTIC MX-4

Check price on Amazon

Also greatARCTIC MX-4

Check price on Amazon

Also greatARCTIC MX-4

Check price on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.

Quick comparison of the picks

What makes GPU paste different from CPU paste

Three physical differences decide which compound lasts on a graphics card.

• Lower mounting pressure. A CPU cooler clamps down through a backplate or a mounting bracket with significant force. Most graphics cooler designs rely on four spring-loaded screws, so the layer of paste between die and cold plate is held with less pressure. Thin pastes are more likely to creep out over time.
• Bare die contact. There is no metal lid on a graphics processor. The paste touches silicon directly and sits next to small surface-mount components. A spill of an electrically conductive compound near those components can short the board.
• Larger thermal swings. A graphics card can go from idle to full load in seconds, then back again. This repeated expansion is what slowly pushes paste out from the centre of the die. Enthusiasts call this pump-out, and it shows up as hotspot temperatures that climb months after a repaste.

Because of these factors, several enthusiast sources steer GPU owners toward higher-viscosity pastes such as Arctic MX-6 or toward phase-change pads, while the ultra-low-viscosity high-conductivity compounds remain the choice for people who accept a shorter service interval.

Best overall: Arctic MX-6

Arctic MX-6 is a non-conductive, non-capacitive paste with high viscosity, which is exactly the property that helps it stay put on a bare die. According to Arctic’s published specification, it has a density of 2.6 g/cm3 and a breakdown voltage of 7.5 kV/mm. Arctic does not publish an official thermal conductivity figure for it, and different retailers quote different numbers, so treat any single W/mK value attached to MX-6 with caution. What matters in practice is that independent reviewers place it within a couple of degrees of the more expensive pastes while it resists drying and migration.

Who it suits: anyone repasting a card that is out of warranty, particularly owners of mid-range and high-end cards who want a clean, repeatable result. It spreads more slowly than Noctua’s paste, so use the dot-in-the-centre method and let the cooler pressure do the spreading.

Pros: non-conductive and forgiving if a tiny amount reaches the board; high viscosity helps against pump-out; budget-friendly with generous tube sizes; easy to find from reputable sellers.

Cons: no official conductivity rating; thick consistency takes a little effort to spread on a cold cooler; gains over a decent factory pad or paste are measured in a few degrees rather than dramatic drops.

Best for easy application: Noctua NT-H2

Noctua NT-H2 is the successor to the long-running NT-H1 and is designed for easy application and long-term stability. Noctua’s specification lists a density of 2.81 g/cm3, an operating range of minus 50 C to plus 200 C, and states that the compound is not electrically conductive and non-corroding. The company recommends it for up to five years on a CPU and storage for up to three years, and a 3.5 g pack is enough for roughly 3 to 20 applications depending on die size. Noctua does not publish a thermal conductivity number, which is unusual, but comparative reviews put it within a degree or two of Kryonaut on CPUs, with one review finding the gap on a stock Ryzen 9 7950X to be about half a degree Celsius.

Who it suits: first-time repasters and anyone who values a clean job. The paste is smooth, easy to dispense and easy to wipe away, which makes it the safest choice for people who have never removed a graphics cooler before. It is also a sensible alternative if you worry about counterfeit Kryonaut tubes, which circulate on online marketplaces.

Pros: excellent usability; non-conductive; long shelf life; large packs are cheap per application.

Cons: no official conductivity number to compare; GPU-specific long-term pump-out data is mostly anecdotal; slightly higher cost than Arctic’s offerings.

Best for lowest temperatures: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Thermal Grizzly rates Kryonaut at 12.5 W/mK, and it is the paste most often named when reviewers talk about the lowest achievable temperatures. It is non-conductive, easy to spread, and delivers repeatable improvements of two to three degrees Celsius under demanding load according to roundup comparisons. On a high-wattage card, that is the difference between a fan curve that sits at 1,800 RPM and one that sits at 1,600 RPM.

The trade-off is longevity. Several enthusiast sources say Kryonaut is a better fit for people who reapply every 12 to 18 months, because its low viscosity can allow pump-out on the lower pressure of a graphics cooler. If that sounds like a chore, choose a thicker paste instead.

Who it suits: overclockers and tinkerers who already open their card every year to clean dust, and who care about squeezing out every degree.

Pros: excellent initial thermal performance; non-conductive; widely reviewed, so results are predictable.

Cons: premium price per gram; pump-out risk on some cards; fakes are common, so buy from an authorised seller.

Best thicker alternative: Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut

Hydronaut is Thermal Grizzly’s thicker, longer-lasting sibling to Kryonaut, rated at 11.8 W/mK by retail specification listings. Its heavier consistency makes it better suited to the lower contact pressure of a GPU die, which is why some GPU-focused guides recommend it over Kryonaut for graphics cards, while keeping Kryonaut for CPUs. The thermal performance gap between the two is small in typical use.

Who it suits: owners who like the Thermal Grizzly brand and want something more stable than Kryonaut without moving to a pad.

Pros: thicker and more stable; non-conductive; proven brand.

Cons: costs more than Arctic and Noctua options for similar real-world results; independent hotspot and pump-out data on specific GPUs is thin.

Best for overclocking: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme

Kryonaut Extreme is rated at 14.2 W/mK, the highest conductivity among the non-conductive pastes in this list. It is aimed at extreme overclockers who benchmark at the edge of their cooler’s capability and are happy to reapply the paste often. On a card that runs at several hundred watts, the extra conductivity can deliver a small but real improvement in sustained boost behaviour.

Who it suits: people with high-power-limit flagship cards and aggressive overclocks, often under liquid cooling or custom water blocks, where die-to-block contact is the main bottleneck.

Pros: highest conductivity of the non-conductive group; suited to benchmarking and overclocking.

Cons: premium price; very thin, so it demands careful application; small tubes mean you may only get a couple of repastes from one pack; the benefit over regular Kryonaut is modest on a stock card.

Best set-and-forget option: Honeywell PTM7950

Honeywell PTM7950 is not a paste. It is a phase-change thermal pad rated at 8.5 W/mK with a thermal impedance of about 0.04 C cm2/W. It changes phase at roughly 45 C, so once the card warms up the pad softens, flows into microscopic gaps and then stays in place. Distributors describe it as silicone-free with no pump-out, bleed-out or dry-out, and it needs about 30 to 40 psi of mounting pressure to reach its best performance.

Owners of cards that suffered repeated pump-out, including some reference-style Radeon cards, report that PTM7950 solved the problem, with forum reports of stable temperatures long after the repaste. However, results are mixed. One user comparing it to MX-6 on a CPU found essentially no difference and found it harder to install. It is also usually sold by third-party resellers rather than directly by Honeywell, so quality and thickness vary. Check the thickness for your card, since the correct pad is typically 0.2 to 0.25 mm.

Who it suits: people who want to repaste once and never think about it again, or who have a card that shows a large gap between edge and hotspot temperatures.

Pros: pump-out resistant by design; stable over time; non-liquid so no mess.

Cons: needs careful cutting and placement; requires warm-up to reach best contact; sold mostly by resellers, so counterfeit and thickness errors are possible; benefit over a good paste is unproven in rigorous GPU comparisons.

For experienced modders only: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut

Conductonaut is a liquid-metal compound with thermal conductivity many times higher than any paste, and it can reduce the gap between GPU edge and hotspot temperatures on cards that run hot. It is also electrically conductive. A single droplet landing on the surface-mount components next to a GPU die can short the board and destroy it permanently. It also reacts with aluminium, so it is only safe on copper or nickel-plated surfaces.

Anyone who uses liquid metal on a graphics card should apply conformal coating or non-conductive varnish or tape around the die, use the smallest possible amount, and accept that any resulting damage is not covered by the card manufacturer’s warranty. If you are reading this guide to find out which paste to buy, Conductonaut is almost certainly not the answer. We list it because many search results recommend it, and it is better to know the risk than to discover it mid-repaste.

Who it suits: experienced modders replacing a failed cooling interface on an old or out-of-warranty card, or builders using custom water blocks.

Pros: the largest temperature improvement possible in a fixed-cooler setup.

Cons: electrical conductivity risk; incompatible with aluminium; hard to apply and clean; voids warranty.

Paste type decision matrix

When a GPU actually needs new paste

Not every warm card needs a repaste. Paste is the cause only when specific symptoms appear. Watch for these signs before you pick up a screwdriver:

• A growing gap between edge and hotspot temperature. Monitoring tools report both. On a healthy modern card, the hotspot typically sits 10 to 15 C above the edge reading. When that gap climbs past 20 to 25 C, contact between die and cold plate has probably degraded.
• Temperatures that climbed over months with the same workload. If the same game now runs several degrees hotter at the same fan speed and the case airflow has not changed, start with dust removal. If cleaning does not help, paste is the next suspect.
• Cards that are several years old. Factory paste on many cards is applied thickly and ages poorly, so older cards often see the biggest benefit.
• Visible oil staining near the die. Silicone oil separating from factory paste is a classic sign of pump-out.

If your temperatures are normal, leave the card alone. Opening a cooler adds risk of damaging pads and screws, and the gain on a healthy card is only a degree or two.

How to repaste a graphics card step by step

1. Check warranty and prepare a clean workspace. Many manufacturers treat a removed cooler screw seal as a voided warranty. Work on an anti-static surface with good light.
2. Photograph every step. Screws vary in length, and the cooler may use different lengths in different locations. A photo of each stage prevents reassembly mistakes.
3. Remove the cooler gently. Undo screws in a diagonal pattern, a little at a time. If the cooler resists, warm the card for a minute with a short idle period so the old paste softens, then twist lightly while lifting. Never pry against the board.
4. Clean both surfaces. Wipe the die and the cold plate with isopropyl alcohol of 90 percent or higher and lint-free wipes until no residue remains. Do not scrape the die.
5. Check thermal pads. Memory and power stages usually sit on thermal pads. If pads are torn, hardened or oily, replace them with the same thickness. Pads that are too thick lift the cooler off the die and make temperatures worse.
6. Apply the new paste. For a rectangular die, a dot about the size of a grain of rice in the middle works well. For thin pastes, a small line along the die works too. More is not better because excess paste insulates and squeezes out onto the board.
7. Reseat the cooler. Lower it straight down, then tighten the screws in a cross pattern, a quarter turn at a time, until each is snug. Do not over-tighten the spring screws.
8. Verify. Run a game or benchmark for 15 to 20 minutes and compare edge and hotspot readings with your earlier numbers. A good repaste should reduce the gap to 10 to 15 C.

Worked example: what a repaste is worth

Suppose a three-year-old card idles at 40 C, reaches 76 C edge and 98 C hotspot under a long gaming session, and the fans run at 2,100 RPM. After cleaning the dust, the numbers barely change, which points to degraded paste. After a repaste with a quality compound, plausible results are an edge temperature of 70 to 72 C and a hotspot of 82 to 86 C, with fans dropping to about 1,800 RPM. That is a 10 to 15 C hotspot improvement, a quieter card and more stable boost clocks, for the cost of a small tube of paste and an hour of careful work.

On a newer card with healthy factory paste, the same repaste may yield only 2 to 4 C. The older and hotter the card, the more a repaste is worth.

Spec and handling reference

Reapply intervals above reflect general enthusiast guidance rather than manufacturer guarantees, and your results depend on your card, case airflow and workload.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Using too much paste. Excess paste does not conduct heat better. It oozes onto the board and attracts dust.
• Ignoring the pads. A great repaste is wasted if memory chips overheat because a pad was replaced with the wrong thickness.
• Buying from unknown marketplace sellers. Counterfeit premium pastes circulate widely. Buy from the manufacturer or an authorised reseller.
• Mixing up CPU and GPU priorities. The paste that wins a CPU comparison chart may not hold up on a GPU die under low pressure.
• Skipping the cleaning step. Old paste left on the die mixes with the new layer and ruins contact.
• Repasting a card that is fine. If hotspot delta is normal, you risk damage for a one or two degree gain.

How to choose in one minute

Start with the card’s age and your comfort level. If you are new to disassembly, buy Noctua NT-H2 or Arctic MX-6 and be done. If you already maintain your hardware yearly, Kryonaut is the best performer on paper. If your card has a documented pump-out problem, try PTM7950. Treat liquid metal as an enthusiast project, not a default purchase. Whatever you choose, buy a genuine product, check the pad thickness, and measure before and after so you know the work paid off.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is more expensive thermal paste always better for a GPU?

No. The premium pastes lead on rated conductivity, but on a graphics card the paste’s ability to stay in place matters as much as raw conductivity. A mid-priced thick paste like Arctic MX-6 can outlast a thin premium paste and finish with better temperatures after a year.

How often should I replace GPU thermal paste?

Most owners do not need to replace it until the card is two to four years old or until hotspot temperatures climb noticeably. High-conductivity thin pastes may need renewing every 12 to 18 months, while thicker pastes and phase-change pads can last several years.

Can I use CPU thermal paste on a graphics card?

Yes, paste is not specific to the component. Any non-conductive paste will work on a GPU die. The consideration is that GPU coolers apply less pressure, so thicker, pump-out-resistant formulas tend to hold up better than very thin ones.

Is liquid metal safe for a graphics card?

Liquid metal is safe only when applied by someone who understands the risks. It conducts electricity, so a small spill near the surface-mount components can short the board, and it can corrode aluminium. For almost everyone, a good non-conductive paste or a phase-change pad is the safer choice.

Will repasting void my graphics card warranty?

It can. Many manufacturers place a warranty seal over a cooler screw, and removing the cooler may void coverage, although policies differ by brand and region. Check the warranty terms before opening a card that is still covered.

How much temperature improvement should I expect?

On an older card with degraded factory paste, drops of 10 C or more at the hotspot are realistic. On a newer card with healthy paste, expect two to four degrees. If your temperatures were already normal, the gain is small and may not justify the risk.